Louis-François CARTIER (1819-1904)

Lot 60
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Estimation :
4000 - 6000 EUR
Result without fees
Result : 10 500EUR
Louis-François CARTIER (1819-1904)
Important neo-Etruscan style bracelet in yellow gold (750) and lapis lazuli, decorated with twisted filigree, formed by a circular pattern centered on a number J.J. applied on a lapis medallion, surrounded by a gold granulation in boxes and four large curved rectangular links, decorated in sequence with lapis medallions, in closed setting chased with a frieze of triangles, framed by two ribbons punctuated with gold balls. The hinges of the links hidden by turned half-patterns, chiseled friezes of triangles, imitating the profiles of Roman Ionic capitals, finished by oval cabochons of lapis in nail setting. Ratchet clasp and safety chain. Goldsmith's hallmark : L.C. ace of hearts. French Second Empire, circa 1855-1865. Gross weight : 79,9 g. - Wrist size : 16 cm. Diameter of the circular pattern : 3,8 cm. Minor chips and scratches from use, especially on the inside; a few small holes in the flared parts of the hinge covers. The fashion of the jewels "à l'étrusque" with decorations of filigree and gold granulation spreads in Europe following the excavations of Etruscan tombs, in particular those of Regolini-Glassi, and of archaeological discoveries in Italy about 1835-1850, and more precisely in France with the purchase by Napoleon III, in 1861, of part of the collection of the Marquis Giampietro CAMPANA, composed, among other things, of numerous antique gold jewels, reassembled by the Roman workshop of Fortunato Pio CASTELLANI. In 1847, Louis-François CARTIER founded the Maison CARTIER, taking over the jewelry workshop of his master Adolphe PICARD, at 29 rue Montorgueil in Paris. In 1856, Princess Mathilde, niece of Napoleon I and cousin of Emperor Napoleon III, began to buy jewelry there and thus made it known to the whole of Paris. In 1859, Louis-François moved to 9 Boulevard des Italiens. Following Princess Mathilde, Empress Eugenie became a customer of the House. Two bracelets of similar design, bearing the hallmark of Louis-François Cartier, have come on to the market: - one, sold at CHRISTIE'S on March 9, 2006, with a central medallion adorned with a fleur-de-lis punctuated with small old-cut diamonds and with motifs concealing the hinges in the form of three-lobed and beaded scepters. This is probably the one reproduced in Cartier, Le style et l'histoire [RMN, 2013, Cat. 6, p. 54. Diam. medallion 3.75 cm. Inv. Coll. Cartier BT125C1850]. - the other, presented at BENTLEY & SKINNER, London jewelers and royal suppliers, with lapis lazuli medallions adorned with gold domes and the same hinge covers as those on our bracelet.
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